This one gave me more trouble and wasn’t too stable.Ĭloser view of my modifications. I found 2 different schematics on Google images.Ĭloser view of the board. I used a simple machine pin style female header so I could easily swap out the crystal. To the left and right of the Block Erupter are my 2 different clock gen circuits I used. I mostly did changes with the Block Erupter connected to my bench power supply with the current limited to prevent any mishaps. You should be very careful if you use my method and always have a volt meter on the asic core voltage line. I used a 10K ohm pot to adjust the core voltage with a volt meter on the pin I soldered to the main asic core voltage line. To get a higher voltage you can change R1. R1 is conveniently the same as R1 in the datasheet for the Regulator and the same applies to R2 :) Lastly the resistors you will need to modify to change the core asic voltage. Here is a list of oscillators on Digikey you can experiment with if you dare.
The core asic clock speed is this crystal times 28. Please note the 3.3v is very important here, as this may be the thing that ended up frying my asic.
ASIC MINER BLOCK ERUPTER USB HOW TO
Here is the datasheet, become familiar with it as you will need to know how to properly modify the core asic voltage. You will learn to hate this chip :D as it will be the source of many of your hardware error issues. Moving along we get to the fun parts :) This is where your soldering skills will take place.īehold the asic voltage regulator and all its glory. Not only does it do the proper conversion, It coverts the 5v usb to 3.3 that powers the AVR chipĪgain you would be stupid to put a heat sink on this. Next we have the Silicon Labs Uart – usb adapter. If it does your doing something wrong. I have seen sales on ebay of heat sink kits for the block erupter that put a heat sink on this chip You would be stupid to put a heat sink on this as it will never get warm.
ASIC MINER BLOCK ERUPTER USB SERIAL
This contains the firmware that bridges the usb – serial adapter chip to the asic. If you go this route: USE A NON CONDUCTING THERMAL GREASE!!! or Heat transfer pad!!!! Artic silver may short things out and leave you with a mess to clean up, if not a dead board. I did this with a dull Exacto knife and very little pressure slowly scraping across the surface. To maximize heat transfer I suggest you carefully remove the solder mask on the back of the board where the asic lies on the other side. The 4 large 2 pin wide traces are all the main + voltage to the asic. You are better off with changing the stock heat sink on the back of the board, or adding on to it as I will show you later. Please note: putting a heat sink on top of this chip will have little if any effect as the heat side of the chip is soldered to the board. The heart and soul of your Block Erupter. Lets start off first with a simple overview of the board Here is how I got my block erupter overclocked to 56o MHz briefly before it died.
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